Northumberland: Bamburgh and The Holy Island of Lindisfarne

 Wednesday I enjoyed a gentle start to the morning. After walking Thelma, I was able to relax on the decking with a herbal tea and my book before anyone else was awake. Although we were keen to get across to Lindisfarne, and the weather seemed favourable, the forecast had promised strong winds and rain showers and we knew that, once on the island we’d be there until the tide went back out to reveal the causeway. We opted for Bamburgh instead since it was easier to get back from if the weather turned inclement. 

Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh is beautiful, with its stone cottage lined Main Street and an imposing castle overlooking the village and the beach, it feels like an image from a history book. It was also quite busy when we arrived, and incredibly popular with dog owners. Thelma isn’t particularly keen on other dogs, she doesn’t realise she is one, so mostly, she tries to avoid them. 

Inside the cafe

We started off with a delicious lunch in a quirky little cafe on the main street. Jacket potatoes, iced coffee (as it turned out much warmer than the weatherman said) and cake. Then we perused some enticing gift shops. I bought a new notebook to add to my pile, and then we headed over the sand dunes onto the beautiful beach. 

Bamburgh truly is a stunning beach. Look one way and it’s sand dunes, the other is the massively imposing Bamburgh castle and out to sea you can see the Farne islands. The sea is clear blue/green and the sand is fine and white. Even though it was very busy, there’s so much space that you don’t have to be sat on your neighbours picnic blanket. We set up camp there. Thelma relaxed and watched the world go by while little Miss made sandcastles.

Then we rolled our jeans up and went for a paddle in the (freezing cold) water, it was so invigorating though and I kept going back in for more, right until the point I wandered too far in and ended up with wet jeans. It was warm out of the surf so they soon dried off.

We wandered back to the car, unexpectedly tired from scaling sand dunes and headed back to the caravan. After a quick freshen up and a snack, we decided to brave the club again. This time we left it until later, missing out on the bonkers bingo. 

Club ready

The club was playing 2000s dance music, so I joined little Miss on the dance floor for a boogie. The perfect end to the day. 

Thursday, the weather forecast was looking good for a day at Holy Island. Given that there are 2 windows of opportunity to get onto the island (and back off) based on when the tide is out, we opted to go for the later one. It meant we would drive across during the mid-afternoon and stay on the island until 8pm.

When we arrived, I was so glad we’d done it that way around as there was quite a crowd of people leaving the island, who had obviously come across early and needed to leave before the tide came in. It’s definitely not somewhere you can visit unplanned unless you want your car to be stuck in the water halfway across. This happens more than you would believe.

On the island the sun was shining but it was incredibly windy. This is my third visit to the island and it’s always windy. We parked up, and wandered along the street taking in the local produce that’s being sold along the way. I bought some local honey and a new t-shirt for Little Miss from the Holy Island Clothing company.

Holy Island is rich in History. The following excerpt is courtesy of History Hit.com.

Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island, is one of the most important centres of early English Christianity. Irish monks settled here in 635 AD and the monastery became the centre of a major saint’s cult celebrating its bishop, Cuthbert. The famous manuscript now known as the Lindisfarne Gospels was created here in the early 8th century. The ruins now visible are those of a 12th-century Lindisfarne Priory, which claimed direct descent from the early monastery.

The Island is known for the famous Viking Raid that occurred there. The devastating Viking attack on the church of St Cuthbert in 793 sent a shockwave through Europe. A Christian community at Lindisfarne survived, and recorded the event on the famous ‘Domesday stone.’

So, there is plenty to see here. The priory itself was closed, but we were still able to see inside.

The church was open, and is still an operational church. The sculpture of monks carrying a coffin when you walk in the door is a bit disconcerting, but the church itself is incredibly peaceful and spiritual. We sat there for a while in quiet contemplation, before taking a look around. It’s so beautiful and ancient. Often times churches and cathedrals can feel bustling and not meditative and spiritual, usually because there are so many people around. Not so with this one, it’s very special.

We wandered down to the beach where a smaller island with a cross on it was visible. The walk back up was beautiful, so many wildflowers everywhere. Ones I don’t think I’ve even seen before. Back at the top we visited the Manor House hotel for a coffee. They were fully booked for dinner that evening though, so I booked a table at the Crown and Anchor, just opposite, for a bit later on. 

Then, we walked to Lindisfarne castle. The walk up to the castle is absolutely beautiful. Ok, so we were blessed with a good day, but I suspect that Lindisfarne is beautiful even in the bleak weather, because it’s so unique. We stopped a few times to take in the stunning views, and at one stop Mum decided she needed a longer rest, so she stayed on the bench admiring the views.

Me, Little Miss and Thelma carried on up to the bottom of the castle, getting battered by the wind the whole way. We didn’t go all the way up to the castle since we needed to get back in time for the table I’d booked, but we got close enough to see how spectacularly imposing it is.

What a beautiful place for it to be too, with views across the sparkling North Sea.

Back at the pub, we were more than grateful of a seat to rest in. We enjoyed a feast, I had a surf and turf burger which was quite delicious. Me and little Miss played cards while we waited for our meals, thoroughly invigorated and quite tired from the day’s activities.

After a hearty meal, and a hearty dessert it was time to head for the car. It was 8pm, the tide would be out and we could leave the island. What a fantastical place.